Before we start building our wall in 10 quick steps, make sure you’ve got a sturdy foundation like an existing concrete floor or foundation and all the necessary building tools.
Building – Step 1
First we measure the dimensions of the work we’re going to be building. Measure the length and width of the shed that you’ve build. Turn this off with a chalk line, chalk or with a carpenter’s pencil along a straightedge.
Building – Step 2
At the corners we will place the profiles. These are rectangular, straight beams to be about 2.5 meters high. Candle law because these are the tools for bricklaying neat straight wall. They come to be at the positions where a wall begins or ends, but also where the corners should come. These profiles should be equivalent to the front. The profiles must be on the masonry side, so the side that remains in sight. At the top, they have to be fixed put (spruce 2 x 5) with support strips. Make these slats in an angle of about 90 degrees to the profile. Before the brace is actually firmly put in place, make sure it’s perfectly perpendicular. Measure this by using your spirit level.
Building – Step 3
Set the door frame at right angles to its place with the aid of struts. In the same way as has happened with the profiles. Put a bar clamp between the frames.
Building – Step 4
Now the level of the zero line must be defined and put into place. This we put ± 6 cm from the concrete (joints + stone thickness). Then this level should be transferred to all other profiles. This is done by means of a spirit level and a tension wire.
Building – Step 5
Of course, the rows of stones must always be perpendicular brick. Therefore it is wise to do some math and calculations in order to get the right brick profile for each row. Do this by creating a mold, which can then use for each profile, so that each row of stone sits at the same height. The joint between two stones should be at least 1 centimeter thick. Write down the total thickness of your first row (stone thickness + joint thickness). At a stone of five centimeters so 5 + 1 = 6, so every 6 centimeters comes a row of bricks again. Mark this down on your template, and then transfer it to the profiles. The fixed size (where you are from) is obviously the zero line from step 4!
Building – Step 6
Now the masonry cord must be confirmed. This cord is usually made from nylon. Put the cord on the lines that you just signed with the mold. Put this string along superiors profiles, so you can longer bricklaying and you do not always move the string. A stone can’t be too dry, but certainly not too wet. Dry stones remove the moisture from the grout, resulting in a poor adhesion. On the other hand a wet stone will float the whole thing. So in hot, dry weather you can make the stone wet with water a day in advance . When the weather is wet, you’ll have to cover the stones. Make sure in any case, the stones are wind dry during processing.
Building – Step 7
Ensure that there’re stacks of bricks places alongside the wall, this prevents you from walking around all the time and let’s you focus on laying down the bricks.
Building – Step 8
Now the grout can be created. On average you take one part cement for every 4 parts masonry sand (always follow the description and right measurements on the cement you use). Mix the cement and sand until it is well mixed dry thoroughly. This shows the solid color that develops. Now it can be added to water until a smooth creamy mass. Make sure the grout is not too wet, causing the mortar to run away and not dry neither, causing the mortar and stone not to adhesive well. Do not make more grout than you can handle in two hours.
Building – Step 9
Apply the mortar with a trowel in one smooth motion, as an elongated track to the substrate. Spread the grout back and forth and apply another bead mortar and lay the next brick in cement. Press the stone in the direction of the foundation stone so that in between this and the previous stone is also some cement. Pick any excess mortar applied directly to the side of the trowel away.
Building – Step 10
Bring to the ± 40 to 50 cm in the window frame anchors. This ensures that wall and frame form a strong whole. The anchors are screwed into the frame and come to lie on the wall in the grout. Put the anchor into it before you start laying bricks. When a cavity wall is cemented, there must be connections between the inner and the outer wall. This is done with wall ties. The wall ties are like the frame anchors to lie in the horizontal joint.
Make sure that at least the same day the joints are scraped out. Do this at least 1 cm deep as you will be adding grout later on, which is explained in this blog.